By The End Of This Program You’ll Find It Tough To Go Back To Factory Lures…..

Fortunately You’ll Never Have To!

 

Greg with a Barra caught on a hand made jerkbait

Congratulations! You’re one step closer to changing your fishing experience forever!

You’re about to find out why custom lures are so deadly on fish – and then get some great advice on how you can make your own wooden lures that leave factory products for dead! You’ll be blown away by how quickly you can become skilled at turning out the highest quality lures……..that CATCH THE HIGHEST QUALITY FISH!

Making custom crankbaits is not rocket science, it’s not black magic, it’s not just for amazingly talented people and it doesn’t take a lifetime to learn. In fact, it’s for anyone who wants better fishing and is prepared to give it a go.

Sadly, most keen fishermen shy away from making their own crankbaits because they think that they don’t have the ability…… or maybe the tools. But the skills can be learned very quickly and your really need very few tools to be successful.

The main challenge is usually what’s between your ears!

So here’s what we’re going to go through on this page:

  1. How To Make IMG_1687Custom Crankbaits That Vibrate In A Way That Fish Can’t Resist
  2. Why Sound Is So Important And How Most Lure Makers Get It Wrong
  3. Ways To Design Lures That Get In The Fish’s Face And Get Noticed
  4. The Basic Tools And Materials You’ll Need To Get Started
  5. The Best Ways To Attach Your Line and Hooks To Your Custom Crankbaits
  6. Make Crankbaits That Take Repeated Beatings And Still Look And Work Great!
  7. Tips For Painting Your Crankbaits To Look Awesome And Professional
  8. The Best Options For Giving Your Custom Baits A Tough, Durable Exterior

Ready? Then let’s get into it!

Greg’s Secret #1:
Good Vibrations, Great Fishing!

One of the reasons crankbaits are so amazingly effective is the powerful vibration that they create in the water. Predatory fish are super sensitive to vibration and can detect it from a very long way away, long before the lure is visible to them. They can also use the minuscule eddies created by a moving lure as a kind of “footprint” to track the lure and home in on it.

I can’t stress this enough: Creating the right vibration will put fish in your bag. BIG FISH!

On the flip side, the wrong vibration will more often than not result in your lure getting ignored.

So how can you create the right vibration? Well, you match the size and shape of your lure to the size and shape of the baitfish that the fish are feeding on. You need to do this whether you are making your own custom crankbaits or are on the water deciding which lure to tie on your line.

Let me give you an example.

Let’s say you’re fishing in a lake where deeper bodied fish like bream and herring are the main food items. These baitfish have big, flat sides and they tend to swim with a tight shimmy. Flat sides mean that every beat of the tail moves a lot of water, and a tight, shimmying action means rapid pulses. [cryout-pullquote align=”right” textalign=”right” width=”33%”]”Put simply: Lures that are similar to the baitfish in size, in shape and in swimming action will usually have a similar vibration to the baitfish“[/cryout-pullquote]This creates a very distinctive vibration, and one that predatory fish immediately recognise as food. It instantly creates a feeding response.

So what lure would I use under these conditions? My first preference would be a lipless crankbait or a flat-sided, deep bodied crank with a narrow diving lip. These styles have a tight shimmy that moves a lot of water with each beat, so the vibration is very similar to the natural baitfish.

If the main food is crayfish then use a lures with a slow, strong beat. If it’s minnows then use a slender lure with a medium wobble. Or a jerkbait to mimic foraging baitfish. You get the idea…..

For the custom lure maker this knowledge is gold. With a little local knowledge or even just some Google research you can quickly identify the vibration that is most likely to work on a particular species in a particular location. Then you can go ahead and make lures that have just the right vibration to really get the fish on the attack!

Best of all, you can design them to match your needs better than anything you can buy off the shelf!

Greg’s Secret #2:
Make Your Custom Crankbaits

Sound Like An Ice Cream Truck!

Top fishermen have known for years that lures that certain sounds attract fish to lures and encourage strikes. So commercial lure makers go nuts making their lures are as loud as possible. It’s quite hard to find a lure that doesn’t contain rattles on the tackle store shelves these days – And that’s created some interesting new problems!!

[cryout-pullquote align=”left” textalign=”left” width=”33%”]”Fish Ears Aren’t Capable Of Hearing The Full Range Of Sounds That Human Ears Do. A Lure That Sounds Loud To Our Ears May Be Silent To The Fish“[/cryout-pullquote]

For starters, very few lure makers have figured out what fish can (and can’t) hear. They make their lures loud for human ears, but it doesn’t necessarily make them loud to fish.

It’s like the old fashioned dog whistle: Blowing it hard makes it louder to the dog….. but human ears still can’t hear it! Fish ears don’t hear all of the sounds that our ears can, so the volume of a crankbait to human ears is almost irrelevant – except when you’re trying to sell lures to other humans!

Then there’s the scare factor!

We all know that catch and release, increasing fishing pressure and mass production of lures has resulted in fish getting educated, right? In many places they’ve learned to recognize the popular lures, especially on highly pressured waters. Well, here’s the scoop: They don’t just recognize the appearance of those popular lures….. they also recognize how they sound at least, those they can actually hear)!

So rattles in lures can easily be sounding a warning bell that turns smart fish off before they even see the lure. And that’s why a lot of pros turn to silent crankbaits for the last day of a tournament.

When it comes to lures and sound I often talk about ice cream trucks and garbage trucks. Garbage trucks are loud, you can hear them from blocks away. But unless you forgot to put your rubbish out for collection you’re probably not going to run out to the street when you hear one.

[cryout-pullquote align=”right” textalign=”right” width=”33%”]”You Not Only Need Fish To Hear Your Lures – You Want Them To Instinctively Associate The Sound Of Your Crankbait With An Easy Feed“[/cryout-pullquote]

On the other hand, ice cream trucks are loud too. But because it’s a sound you associate with a pleasant treat your subconscious will be figuring out where your wallet is even before your conscious mind has picked up on the music. And when you finally get out on the street you’ll find that little van swarming with folks who normally couldn’t be prized off the couch with a crow bar.

You want lures that sound like ice cream trucks to fish. You want them to register in the subconscious as a real treat that a predatory fish wouldn’t want to miss. Sounds that make them get off their lazy butts and take action instinctively, before some other fish beats them to it.

menacefoilproducts1How do you get that?

You give some thought to how you design and make rattles, so your crankbaits create a low tone sound that fish can hear well, that’s different from anything available in stores and get’s their mouths a waterin’!

Just by its very nature a wooden lure tends to do this anyway because wood has a very different resonance to plastic (that’s why no one makes plastic guitars!). A rattle in a wooden lure will always sound duller and more gentle to a human ear than a rattle in a plastic lure. And it will always be easier to hear and more like an ice cream truck to the fish’s ears!

Here are some tips for putting rattles in your custom wooden lures:

Crankbait rattles and rattle components

  1. Don’t worry that they sound duller than rattles in plastic lures. That’s a good thing! It will set your lures apart from factory ones, is easier for fish to hear and is far more attractive to most fish species.
  2. Play around with different types of rattles. For example if I need a softer, gentler sound for say, freshwater rattlebaits, I use a whole bunch of small ball bearings. But I’ll often use a smaller number of larger BB’s in saltwater lures, which gives a louder, lower pitched sound.
  3. Make batches of lures that are the same except for their sound. It’s another one of the great advantages of custom lures! You can cycle through a bunch of lures until you find what’s working on the day….. and more often than not it will be something that looks and sounds like nothing you can buy in the tackle shop!
  4. Don’t be afraid to make some silent lures too. In hard-fished waters silent lures will often out perform noisy ones.

Greg’s Secret #3:
Make Lures That Dance In The Fish’s Face!

IMG_1686Here’s a red hot tip that all lure fishermen should know: One of the most important things about fishing crankbaits is getting them to the right depth.

What’s the right depth?

That just depends on where the fish are sitting! But the important thing to know is that fish very rarely travel downwards to take a lure. They’ll quite often take a lure from alongside and even more frequently from below, but rarely will they come down from above to nail a lure.

How far upwards they’ll travel to annihilate your crankbait depends on a lot of things, such as the species, conditions, time of year and the mood they are in. But in my experience there is usually a sweet spot somewhere between 3-10 ft (1-3m) above the fish, depending on the species. That’s the “zone”, and if your lure is there and looks right it will most likely get eaten. Of course some species will travel further, others less distance, so you need to play around with various diving depths until you hit the right one.

Now, have you ever found yourself with a lure that’s just the right size, shape and color, but you’re thinking “I wish this lure would run a little deeper” or maybe “It would be better if this lure had a stronger action”. Or even “If only this lure would suspend/sink, then I’d be onto the fish!”


Once again, custom crankbaits come to the rescue! Once you understand a few things about diving lips and the other design factors that affect the depth that your lures work to you can make them do pretty much whatever you need them too. Unfortunately, most lure makers, even some very experienced ones don’t really have a grasp on how a diving lips work…… so here’s a potted summary that will get you on the right track!

Diving Lip Length is the factor that has the greatest influence on how deep a lure will dive. The longer the lip, the deeper the dive, to a point. There are physical limits as to how deep a crankbait can go, but we won’t go into the physics of it here!

Diving Lip Width mostly affects the amount of side to side wobble or roll a lure has, depending on a bunch of other factors. It generally doesn’t affect diving depth all that much. Making a diving lip wide at the front and narrower near the lure body tends to give a strong action with better stability than one that’s wide all of the way down.

attitudeDiving Lip Angle is the least understood factor. Most lure makers believe the old wives tale that a lure that has a horizontal diving lip will dive deeper than one with a diving lip that is the same size but more vertical. Unfortunately, that’s a half truth at best. Diving lip angle affects the “angle of attack”, which affects the rate at which a lure reaches maximum depth. It also affects the action of the lure: A large diving lip that is too vertical causes a lure to have a wild and unstable action, which usually results in it turning on its side and coming to the top in the first few feet of cranking. By making that lip more horizontal the action of the lure is more balanced and the lure can swim properly and achieve full diving depth.

Diving Lip Shape affects the action of the lure. Diving lips with a round end tend to give the most stable and uniform action. Square lips get slightly greater diving depth and a more erratic action, while coffin shaped lips are somewhere in between and are my favorite for tossing into snag piles.

Tow Point Location affects the action of the lure. Moving the tow point forward reduces the action, while moving it backwards tends to increase the action. That’s the reason that the tow point for most deep divers is on the diving lip….. it reduces the action enough that the lure is stable and can work properly. At the other extreme, jerkbaits have a smaller diving lip and the tow point is usually on the nose of the lure, maximizing the action out of a small lip.

Greg’s Secret #4:
A Lure Makers Kit For 50 Bucks Or Less!

If you’re looking at the lure photos on this page and you’re thinking you’ll need to spend a ton of hard earned cash to get started at crankbait making then think again! If you were starting from absolute zero you could put a lure making kit together for about $50…… including $35 for a new electric hand drill!

Custom Crankbait making is like any accessory sport/hobby, like photography, golf, cycling and…..dare I say it, fishing! There is lots of stuff you could buy. Hell, I’ve been making lures for over 30 years and I could still go nuts and spend a fortune on a ton of neat new tools and toys.

But you really don’t need it! If you’re just getting started you can get by with really simple tools and materials. With a little patience, about 90% of the lures I make in my workshop can easily be made using a tool kit made up of:

  • A sharp chisel or craft knife
  • A handsaw
  • A couple of pairs of pliers
  • A drill and some bits (battery drill preferred, electric drill is fine)
  • A piece of sandpaper or two

Most people already have most or all of this stuff kicking around their home already – which means you can get started for nothing!

It’s true that a bunch of fancy tools can make things faster. But for a newbie the above is about all you’ll need.

Actually, let me just qualify that last statement! The above is all the tools you’ll need to start making lures that catch fish hand over fist. But to make lures look really schmiko usually requires an airbrush to apply a flash paint job. For newbies, aerosol paints are fine for creating lures that catch a ton of fish, they’re just not as polished as the factory product.

crawfish-silent-custom-crankbaitAnd as far as materials go, you don’t need too much in that department, either:

  • Timber (see the video for suggested timbers)
  • Stainless steel wire or screw eyes
  • Epoxy adhesive
  • Weights
  • Lexan for diving lips
  • Paint and clear coat

 

Making top-notch crankbaits doesn’t require tons of skill or talent…..

Take a look at me, for example. I’m not an artist. I’m no craftsman. I can’t draw, paint, carve, sculpt or do anything that creative. But I’ve learned how to make lures – and you can too.

There is a ton of great info out there to get you started – but be warned, lure making is littered with people who are all too willing to give advice on stuff they haven’t perfected themselves! I know certain individuals who are lucky if 10% of their lures work and catch fish. Yet these same guys are on forums and web sites giving advice as though they are experts. It’s really annoying to see newbies being led down the garden path!

Check to see if the advice you are getting is coming from someone that really knows their stuff. It will save you a lot of time, money and frustration.

My Crankbait Masterclass has been developed for exactly this reason. It isn’t for everyone, but is specifically designed for people who don’t want to waste time trying to put together all of the pieces of the puzzle. Some people like to figure stuff out for themselves and that’s great…… but it’s not what my Masterclass is about. My Masterclass is all about becoming an expert lure maker FAST – without wasted time, money or materials. It’s for people who want to be catching awesome fish on their own lures as quickly as possible.

tuffy

crankbait-masterclass

 

Greg’s Secret #5
Screw It Or Twist It? Tow Points And Hook Hangers!

There’s not much point making a crankbait wouldn’t be much good if you don’t add some place to tie your line (known as the “tow point” or “line tie”) and attach some hooks (hook hangers).

There are a few different ways to add these fixtures to a wooden lure body. The first is to use a piece of hardware known as a screw eye, which is a piece of wire with a fine wood screw thread at one end and a loop or eye at the other end. The second way is to make and twist a loop of wire and glue it into a hole filled with epoxy adhesive. And yet another way is to use what is known as a “through wire” – which is a single piece of wire, bent and twisted to shape and inserted into the lure body.

Lets take a look at the pro’s and con’s of each, shall we?

screw-eyesScrew eyes are the simplest to work with because there is nothing much to do but screw them into the wood at the desired location, with a little smear of epoxy to hold them firm and prevent twisting. Ok, if you’re making lures for very large, tough fish there are a few more tricks to give them extra strength, but I’m not going to cover them here 😉

In theory, screw eyes are the weakest way to add a tow point or hook hanger. In reality, I’ve done some tests with light duty screw eyes and found even the lightweight, low quality screw eyes to be way strong enough to handle much heavier fishing than they were ever intended for.

Twisted wire eyelets are almost as quick and easy as screw eyes. They take just a few minutes to make and install and in the tests I did they were actually stronger than screw eyes. They are best made from marine grade (316) stainless steel, which ensures they won’t rust or stain the lure, even during constant saltwater use.Obviously, the strength improves with length and the amount of glue you get into the pre-drilled holes.

through-wireThrough wires are by far the strongest way to make a wooden crankbait. The usual process is to cut a slot in the lure body, usually before it’s shaped, and then bend a single piece of stainless steel wire to the required shape and glue it into the slot using epoxy adhesive. The slot is then back filled with epoxy and sanded flush with the surface of the wood

The main advantage of a through wire is when you find yourself connected to a toothy customer like a mackerel or wahoo that can sometimes bite a lure in two. The through wire is the only option that ensures you’ll stay connected to a fish under these circumstances.

[cryout-pullquote align=”right” textalign=”right” width=”33%”]”Always use a through wire in a balsa lure body…….. balsa doesn’t hold the fine thread of a screw eye anywhere near securely enough”[/cryout-pullquote]So which option is best?

They all have their advantages and disadvantages and to some extent it comes down to personal preference. I don’t like leaving anything to chance, so I make 90% of my lures with a through wire. But after doing some strength tests on these three options (and a couple of others) I’m now considering switching to twisted eyelets for some of my lures that are used predominantly in freshwater.

Greg’s Secret #6:
Make Your Crankbaits Tough Enough To Last Hundreds Of Fish!

[cryout-pullquote align=”left” textalign=”left” width=”33%”]”Moisture Kills Wooden Lures, And A Coat Of Paint Isn’t Enough Protection. You Need To Harden And Waterproof The Wood Before Painting It” [/cryout-pullquote]Wood is an awesome natural product and in my opinion is by far the best lure making material – miles better than plastic, especially in terms of it’s fish catching qualities. But water is the enemy of wooden lures, which is a problem considering the reason we all make them!

Raw wood absorbs water like a sponge and pretty soon all of your hard work starts to unravel. If a lot of water gets in you’ll notice that the action of your crankbait will deaden after a bit of fishing. It might take minutes or hours, depending on how much water is getting in.

The second problem is that moisture kills paint. Once water gets into the wood it goes right through the lure by capillary action, then comes up under the paint and causes it to lift. It’s not always obvious, but moisture is the cause of 90% of paint failures.

And it’s often because lure makers either don’t know how to prepare their wood or they try and take shortcuts!

So, how do you make a durable and hard wearing crankbait that will look fantastic for years to come no matter how much punishment you dish it? Simple: Prepare the wood properly before painting.

Putting a coat of paint over the lure body and then clear coating just isn’t enough. It’s normal for paint to get chipped because lures are often cast against rocks, snags and other structure, not to mention getting bitten by aggressive, toothy fish!

The best way to prepare for painting is to harden and seal the wood with a chemical that doesn’t just stick to the outside, but actually soaks deep into the wood. Once you’ve done this, your lure is basically impervious to water, even if the paint and clear coat get chipped. It would really take a serious puncture by some seriously big teeth before water could get in.

Not only is the wood impervious to water, the treatment also hardens it a lot making it tougher and more resistant to denting and other damage.

Here’s how you can harden your wood:

  • hardenerTreat it with a penetrating wood hardener, which you’ll get at most paint and hardware stores. These chemicals are designed to penetrate deep into rotten wood and then harden, restoring the strength of the wood, so they are perfect for lures. I like to soak my lures in wood hardener for an hour or so to let it really get into the wood. Then I hang them for at least a week to fully cure and harden before giving them a light sand with 400 grit sandpaper. Then the lures are ready for paint.
  • Paint the lure with supa glue! This is an old lure makers trick and it does a fine job, working much the same as the penetrating wood hardener does. Make sure you give the lure plenty of time to cure because the glue can harden on the outside and seal the surface, leaving unhardened glue underneath. They might feel hard and dry, but the solvent trapped underneath will wreak havoc with your paint later. Leaving your lures for a few days after the supa glue treatment avoids this problem.
  • Treat the wood with a two-part epoxy. This is a fair bit more fiddly, but the results are worth it because the epoxy not only seals, hardens and waterproofs the lure, it also fills the grain and any surface imperfections. PLUS, if you’re using a wood that has a high tannin content (such as cedar) it prevents them from staining your paint later on. Epoxy tends to be a bit thick though, so you need to thin it down (alcohol or epoxy thinners are good) to allow it to soak in deeper. I also warm my lures to open the pores and allow easier access for the epoxy. I recommend a slow drying epoxy for this, as it will stay thin longer and get deeper into the wood structure.

After any of these sealing and hardening treatments you need to allow plenty of time for curing and then give your lure bodies a light sand to remove the raised grain ready for painting.

A final note – most airbrush paint systems include a sealer that goes on before the color coats. The purpose of this coat is to provide strong adhesion of the paint to the surface, so you still need to use it, even after you’ve treated your wood with hardener, supa glue or epoxy.

crankbait-masterclass

Greg’s Secret #7:
Lure Art And Fish Candy….Paint Your Lures Up Pretty!

shhlargePainting lures is a funny thing! To be honest, the fish don’t care as much about a cool paint job as fishermen! But a great paint job is the perfect way to take a well-made custom lure to that next level of professionalism. Plus, painting is one of the most satisfying and rewarding aspects of lure making.

And while quality painting doesn’t affect the fish catching too much, if you plan to sell some of your hand made lures it’s critical that they look good. Sadly, you could have the best, most effective fishing lure on the planet but if it doesn’t look like a piece of lure art you’ll have a hard time selling it.

I could easily fill several books with everything you need to know about painting and clear coating lures, but for the purpose of this page I’ll stick to a few key points!

airbrushAlmost all of my paint jobs are done using an airbrush, but if you’re just getting started a making crankbaits then there’s a good chance you won’t have one of these. That’s not a problem, I know lots of guys who use aerosol cans to paint their custom lures and do just fine with them. The main tip I have is to choose a brand of paint and a solvent system and stick with it, don’t mix several brands of paint or there is a good chance that they’ll react with each other and create a mess that has to be sanded off. Automotive aerosols are a good option and allow you to buy a wide range of colors including metallics in small quantities.

[cryout-pullquote align=”left” textalign=”left” width=”33%”]”Remember: Fish Ain’t Art Critics. You Don’t Have To Be Rembrandt To Make Lures That Will Tempt Even The Fussiest Fish To Strike. Keep Lure Art In Proper Perspective, It’s More For Fishermen Than Fish“[/cryout-pullquote] If you’re getting a bit more serious about your lure painting then you’ll want to get yourself an airbrush and compressor and learn to use them! There are a couple of schools of thought here: A lot of guys will say that a cheap, hardware store airbrush from around $20-50 is good enough, and to a point they’re right. These cheap airbrushes do allow a beginner to get started and do a reasonable job of painting a lure. They are certainly an improvement on the good old aerosol can – but they often hold people back because their capabilities are somewhat limited and they are often prone to getting blocked up, requiring frequent stoppages to clean and unclog them.

I recommend getting the best airbrush you can afford – you don’t need a $1000 artists version, there are plenty in the $100-200 range that are perfect for lure painting, and most of my own airbrushes fall into this category. If your budget doesn’t stretch that far then by all means start cheaper!

Regarding paints for airbrushing, I wouldn’t recommend anything these days except waterbourne acrylics that are specifically designed for airbrushes. These paints are non-toxic, non flammable, fast drying and easy to use. They have a solvent system that is designed for airbrushes and the pigment is extremely finely ground, which reduces clogging of the very fine nozzle on the airbrush. Don’t use poster paints, household acrylics or other artists paints…….you’ll spend more time cleaning your airbrush and waiting for lures to dry than you’ll spend painting.

A basic starters paint setWhen you buy your first batch of airbrush paints the range of colors can be a little bewildering, but the following selection is a good place to start:

  • Light sealer
  • 1 each of semi-opaque and transparent white, black, red, blue and yellow paint
  • One or two pearl or metallic paints – pearl white is one I use a lot.
  • Reducer for thinning paint

Remember the reduce your paint well – it’s far better for the paint to be too thin than too thick when you are airbrushing. And spray lots of light coats for the best results.

Clear Coating

Most airbrush paints are relatively soft and porous, so they require a coat of clear over the top to make them hard, waterproof and durable. Unfortunately the perfect clear coat for lures is yet to be invented, they all have their own pro’s and con’s. It’s another area where lots of lure makers strike difficulties.

Your clear coat not only needs to be tough and durable, it needs to be ultra clear, glossy to create flash, easy to apply, cost effective and most importantly, it needs to play nicely with the airbrush or aerosol paints you used to bring your crankbaits to life. There is nothing so frustrating as to paint the perfect lure and then find that the clear coat causes the paint beneath it to crack, craze or blister.

There are two main types of clear coat used by lure makers these days: Moisture Cure Urethanes (MCU’s) and two part epoxy.

MCU’s are the easier of the two to apply, because the lure can usually just be dipped into them and hung to dry. They are relatively clear and do create a pretty durable finish, but they have a few downsides.

As the name implies, the catalyst that causes MCU’s to cure is moisture – and it needs very little to get it started. Basically, there is enough moisture in the air to get the stuff to cure to a rock hard, glassy finish. The problem with that is each time you open the tin a little bit of moisture gets in and the MCU begins to turn to gel and then harden in the tin. It’s very annoying!

Using dry argon gas or small canisters of “bloxygen” to remove the air from the tin before you seal it up helps extend the shelf life of the MCU, but doesn’t solve the problem and adds extra cost and hassle.

The other problems I’ve had with MCU’s are that there often seems to be problems if you give your lure a second coat and it doesn’t play nicely with some other paints. It’s usually fine with airbrush acrylics, but if you use an enamel paint or a lacquer you’ll want to leave the lure a week or two for all of the solvent to be released before coating with MCU.

Also watch your health when working with MCU- the paint and vapors can be quite toxic and the toxins can absorb through the skin and eyes just as easily as through the lungs. Wear gloves and a mask and work in a well ventilated place with MCU’s.

Epoxies give a very tough, durable finish that I think looks better than any other clear coat I’ve seen. But they’re not without their problems, either! The two main ones that are used by lure makers are Envirotex Lite and Devcon 2K.

Epoxies are a two part finish and the parts are mixed in equal quantities before brushing on. The stuff is too thick and slow drying to be sprayed by amateurs, although some pros have their techniques. Use a disposable brush, it doesn’t matter what you try you won’t be able to clean a brush for re-use!

The best way to apply epoxies is to brush them on quite thick and then put them on a rotating rack in a warm, dust-free place for a few hours to keep them turning until the resin sets. This is a bit of a hassle but gives a nice even coating without runs or drips.

Envirotex is the better of the two options, in my opinion. It’s clearer and more lustrous than Devcon, but it’s also slower drying, a magnet for dust when it’s sticky and is generally a bit harder to use.

What do I personally use? Envirotex Lite. But then, I don’t make large matches of lures to sell, so I have the luxury of spending a little extra time applying the clear coats. If I wanted to speed up my production I’d probably switch to a two part MCU instead.

The Fast, Easy Way To Become An Expert Crankbait Maker, Even If You Haven’t Made Your First Bait Yet!

So there you have it…… 7 Crankbait making tips that will get you off to a great start!

But we’re only scratching the surface, because what I’ve shown you so far is the tiniest drop in the bucket compared to what’s covered in my Crankbait Masterclass! Everything you see here is covered in a lot more detail, along with a ton of other great stuff, hours of video tutorials, dozens of lure templates, painting demonstrations and more!

For just $49 per month (and only $9.95 for the first month – for a limited time) you’ll get weekly step-by-step lessons that will take you from crankbait newbie to custom crankbait gun!

If you’re goal is to be making great crankbaits sooner and waste less time and money making dud lures then you really need to check out what’s included in my Crankbait Masterclass!

Tight Lines and Crankbait Making Success!

 

Greg “Doc Lures” Vinall

 

crankbait-masterclass

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